Touring in a pandemic… seriously?
The Covid-19 Pandemic of 2020 really messed-up everyone’s plans for everything. It also messed-up many lives with profound and tragic consequences. This blog is in no way intended to diminish the seriousness of the issue.
However, extracting whatever limited pleasure was available to Petrolheads through using their beloved cars was one way of offsetting the gloom foisted upon society.
When the UK government lifted travel restrictions in early July, many people took the opportunity to take a newly-defined ‘staycation’ (that once meant holidaying at home rather than holidaying somewhere in the UK).
The team at Petrolheads Welcome were no different in their eagerness to drive some miles, especially when the drives we had already planned in France, Spain and Italy had to be cancelled.
This blog shares not only the simple joy of the freedom of the open road, but also looks at how a small part of the UK hospitality industry is coping with/without people like us.
Despite the variable nature of local lockdown restrictions, we decided to go ahead with our trip, albeit reduced from two cars and four people to a couple in a single car. We were eager to understand what the restrictions would mean for us and for the businesses receiving us as customers during our trip.
Thus armed with our face masks, hand sanitiser and NHP Covid App, we set off from Somerset for Cumbria in lovely late Autumn weather. It wasn’t to last… the weather, that is.
We filmed the journey so that we could capture our experiences as they happened. You can see the film here.
Our first overnight stop, some 300 miles later, was the Fat Lamb at Ravenstonedale, run by renowned Petrolhead, Paul Bonsall, whose welcome was as warm as we expected. That was our base for two nights so that on the following day we would have a relatively short excursion to the Lakeland Motor Museum, about an hour to the west.
Day 2 turned out to be a wet day, despite which the roads remained scenic. Paul kindly gave us the route to the museum. He organises many runs for visiting car clubs and this is one of his most popular. Whilst we had no problem in the DB9, I reckon some of the narrower/steeper parts would have been a challenge for any ultra-low cars, but there are alternatives, so not a worry if you’re thinking of popping along in your GT40.
I had a chat with Paul, on camera, later that day to see how he was coping with the pandemic’s effect on his business. “A severe impact, as you’d imagine” was his response in a year when 26 car club bookings were all cancelled. He remains optimistic that they are merely postponements and that 2021 will be a good year, Covid-allowing!
The next day dawned dry and sunny, perfect for the Aston to stretch its legs over the glorious north Pennines, across Weardale to Northumberland. We stopped for a scenic coffee break at the Derwent Reservoir. What majestic and quiet roads they are in that part of the world (our film will give you some idea). Perhaps there would have been a little more traffic had we done this trip in high season.
Our stop for the next two nights was Doxford Hall, a recently refurbished stately home with spa facilities and two restaurants set in stunning grounds, including the UK’s biggest yew maze (we didn’t have the right footwear to try it out… that’s our excuse).
A chat with some of the staff at the hotel revealed the same sense of frustration that they are eager to welcome visitors to an environment that they have taken extensive precautions to make safe. The ‘track & trace’ scheme was causing them problems in terms of staff planning with some staff missing holidays and days off to cover for colleagues who have been forced to stay at home. Of course, everyone there understood the need to abide by the rules and to do their best to ensure customer service wasn’t affected.
For our part, we were happy to wear our masks outside our room, although carrying our luggage seemed to take more effort than usual thanks to our reduced air intake… thank goodness performance cars don’t have to wear masks!
Day four of our trip was another sunny and dry day as we set off north over the border into ‘Border Reivers’ country… home for much of his life to racing legend, Jim Clark. Another lovely drive across the countryside to Duns and the museum dedicated to Jim’s life and sporting prowess.
We receive a very warm welcome from Euan at the museum, who also invited us to park directly outside, a space usually reserved for car clubs and visiting dignitaries, neither of which were we.
The museum is small but packed with pictures, trophies, some of Jim’s cars and plenty more besides. You can easily spend an hour or four. A must see is one of the two 20-minute films they play on a loop. Jim’s achievements on four wheels remain mind-boggling 50+ years later.
From there we enjoyed a scenic drive along the Northumberland coast, past Bamburgh Castle and an ice cream stop by the seaside.
Home on the following day was a mere 360 miles in dreadful wind and rain as Storm Alex exercised our windscreen wipers. Our only break, and a welcome break at that, was for lunch at Caffeine & Machine in Warwickshire. Jack at the gate checked our pre-booked ticket – another Covid requirement – and guided us to one of very few parking spaces at the front. There were plenty more spaces, and plenty more cars, parked at the back of what is a lively Petrolheads venue with music playing, car spotters spotting, a yurt-style outdoor bar, takeaway van and the main building’s attractions. It’s a venue that seems to be growing in popularity, aided by events involving some high-profile guests from the Petrolhead world.
What have we learned?
Firstly, that UK plc is still open for business, albeit we consumers have to abide by some inconveniences that have been imposed upon our hosts. None of us mind such sacrifices given the two-pronged benefit of keeping the population safe and having the opportunity to enjoy our cars.
Secondly, make sure you book in advance and then check your booking before you leave, be that for a hotel room or museum entry. We decided against one hotel that had closed its restaurant but failed to tell people like us who had already booked a room!
Thirdly, be prepared to make changes at the last minute. To that end, travelling alone or with only your partner makes such decisions easier. For some very small venues, such as B&Bs, you may have to postpone or even forfeit your deposit. If so, whilst that may grate a little for a while, you can sleep soundly knowing that you are helping to keep those little businesses afloat for your visit next year.
Fourthly, follow the basic rules. As the current government mantra says, “hands, face, space”. Sadly, we saw plenty of older people ‘forgetting’ the rules, even when politely pointed out to them. I, along with a fellow traveller, looked on incredulously as a chap left the motorway services loos without washing his hands. No doubt that idiot has never washed his hands after using the loo and so nothing’s going to make him start now!
Finally, don’t be put off planning your driving holiday. Whether you make it this year or next year, start your planning now. Perhaps a weekend break at the coast or in the hills in mid-winter and then a tour across Europe in late spring 2021? You can of course use Petrolheads Welcome to help you.😊
If you fancy replicating our tour, we have included four of our route plans below for you to screen shot and print out.
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You can find the FBHVC’s directory of Motor Museums HERE.
Don’t forget, if you have a favourite route or know of some places to visit or stay that are not listed on Petrolheads Welcome, please tell us and we’ll add them to the site. Thank you.
Happy and safe motoring all…
Here are some scenic routes from our tour that you might enjoy…
To the Fat Lamb from Northbound M6
N.B. – If travelling North on the M6, most route planners will advise leaving the motorway at J37 but we found leaving earlier accessed the following more scenic route:
- Exit M6 at J34 Kirkby Lonsdale/Heysham/Morcambe
- Get into the right lane of Lune Valley Interchange (Kirkby Lonsdale East painted on the road). At the traffic lights turn right for Kirkby Lonsdale A683 East
- Keep left under motorway bridge A683
- Filter left towards Kirkby Lonsdale A683 drive approx. 10miles
- Go left at T-junction just over the bridge to stay on A683 (signposted Kirkby Lonsdale A683 Tunstall 3/4) drive approx. 3 miles
- Turn left at T-junction on to A65 then shortly afterwards
- Turn right towards Casterton (signposted Casterton Barton Sedburgh) back on to A683 drive approx 9.5 miles
- Turn right at T-junction on to A684 Station Rd. (signposted Sedburgh Dent & Dentdale Kirkby Stephen Hawes)
- Drive through the centre of Sedburgh (road bends to right) at the mini roundabout take 1st exit left on to Back Lane A684 (signposted K’by Stephen, Brough & Hawes)
- After about 0.5miles carry straight on and the road becomes A683 again (don’t go right on to A684 to Garsdale)
- Continue to follow A683 for approx. 8.5 miles to the Fat Lamb on left.
Lakeland Motor Museum to Fat Lamb – Approximately 1 hour
N.B. – Paul Bonsall at the Fat Lamb will happily provide a tulip map for a scenic route to the Lakeland Motor Museum which we followed. However, a road closure on our return meant we found this alternative route home which, apart from a short wriggle around Kendal, was pleasantly scenic.
- Exit the museum left on to the A590
- At the roundabout take the first exit on to A592 (signposted Windermere)
- After about 6.5 miles take sharp right up Longtail Hill (signposted Kendal B5285)
- At the T-junction turn left on to A5074 and almost immediately turn right on to B5284 (signposted Crook Kendal B5284)
- Follow road through Crook towards Kendal until you reach the major junction of the A591.
- Turn left then right and right again on to Windermere Road towards Kendal. Keep left to stay on Windermere Road A5824 towards Kendal.
- Continue along A5824 after approx.. 1.5 miles road turns left on to Sandes Road. Follow signs straight on for A6 Penrith.
- At the roundabout take the first exit on to Longpool A6 (signposted Penrith, Shap A6 Brough A685)
- After passing under the railway bridge turn right by the Porsche dealership past the Duke of Cumberland Pub (signposted Tebay, Appleby, Brough A685)
- Continue on A685 for approx. 11.5 miles passing over M6 and through Tebay. At the roundabout take the 3rd exit to stay on A685
- After approx.. 9.5 miles take right turn on to A683 (signposted Sedburgh 12 and brown sign for Fat Lamb)
- Fat Lamb will be on the right after about 3 miles.
Fat Lamb to Doxford Hall (Approx. 2.5 hours)
- Turn left out of pub car park and follow A683 for approx 3 miles
- Turn right at T-junction on to A685 (SP Kirkby Stephen and Brough) follow for approx 6 miles
- Road goes under A66 continue straight on under bridge (not right to A66 Scotch Corner) – road becomes B6276 at the T-junction by clock tower, turn right (SP ‘Middleton-in-Teesdale 14 miles B6276). Continue to follow B6276
- After approx 1 mile, road forks left to stay on B6276 (SP Middleton-in-Teesdale 13 miles)
- Stay on B6276 and in approx 6 miles merge left on to B6277
- At T-junction in centre of Middleton-in-Teesdale, go left on to Market Place then right at The Teesdale Hotel up the hill on to Town Head (signposted Stanhope and a brown sign saying ‘Weardale’)
- After approx 0.5miles turn right after white cottage (signposted Stanhope 11)
- After approx 4 miles turn left (care, no signpost) and left again at T-Junction onto B6278 (signposted Stanhope). Don’t worry if you miss the first left you can join further down at the next T-junction)
- After entering Stanhope go right onto A689 (signposted Wolsingham) shortly afterwards
- Turn left by the Grey Bull pub (signposted Edmundbyers) onto B6278 Crawleyside Bank
- Follow B6278 towards Edmundbyers. After approx 8.5 miles you can take a break at Derwent Water Reservoir and park where there is a pay & display carpark with toilets and a small takeaway cafe. You can also drive up to the reservoir viewing/photo point (care 10 mph).
- Continue on B6728 for approx 0.5 mile to the junction of the A68. Turn left towards Corbridge. Drive for approx 6.5 miles to Broomhaugh roundabout and take 2nd exit to stay on A68.
- At next roundabout in 1.5 miles, take the 5th exit on to A69. From here you can follow the A69 to the A1 slip road in 11 miles and join A1 towards Morpeth & Jedburgh.
OR
- For a more scenic route, take 2nd exit after roundabout on to B6309 (signposted Stamfordham & Matfen) crossing over the A696 at Belsay on to B6524 to Morpeth and join A1 further North.
- Follow A1 towards Alnwick. Approx 3.5 miles after Alnwick junction turn right on to B6347 (signposted Christon Bank 3), Follow road to T-junction where you will see brown signs for Doxford Hall.
Doxford Hall to Jim Clark Motorsport Museum – Approx. 1 hour
- Turn left out of hotel gates back to the A1
- Turn right (north) on to A1 travel approx 11 miles
- Turn left on to B6353 signed Lowick 4 Fenwick 1/4
- At T-junction turn left to stay on B6353 towards Coldstream. Shortly afterwards turn right to stay on B6353 towards Ford and Coldstream.
- After passing through Ford Village, approx 4 miles, turn left by large stone building on right and continue to follow B6353.
- Continue straight on, road becomes B6354 signed Milfield 2 Wooler 9
- in approx 0.5 miles at T-junction turn right on to A697. Follow road for approx 5 miles
- At roundabout ,take 1st exit on to Main St A698 signed Coldstream. Road bends to right. Continue to follow A698 towards Coldstream. Drive approx 1.5 miles
- Turn right on to Guards Road by Mercedes car dealership, drive 0.3miles
- Road bends to right on to Duns Road signed ‘Duns’. Drive approx 6.5 miles
- Turn right at T-junction on to B6460. At crossroads, turn left on to A6112. Stay on A6112 for approx 3 miles.
- At mini-roundabout by MOT centre, go left on to A6105 (signed ‘Jim Clark Rooms’) follow road around. The Jim Clark Motorsport Museum will be on the right.
Choice 1 – Return (Quick Route)
- Return the way you came, but turn left at the mini roundabout past MOT centre onto A6105
- After approx 6 miles road bends to right to stay on A6105 all the way to A1.
- At junction of A1 turn left to roundabout then back on to A1 southbound towards Doxford Hall junction.
Choice 2 – Return (Scenic/Coastal Route)
- Return the way you came, but turn left at the mini roundabout past MOT centre onto A6105
- After approx 6 miles road bends to right to stay on A6105 all the way to A1.
- After turning back south on to A1 turn left after approx 5 miles on to B1342 towards Bamburgh and follow coastal road past Bamburgh Castle, through Seahouses and Beadnell to return to Doxford Hall.
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[…] of the roads and places mentioned above. We featured some of them in our 2020 blog and video “Touring in a Pandemic…seriously?“, although the route we took then wasn’t quite as scenic as the one described here. […]